The first day of a new year is a public holiday in France, but the event itself isn’t as much of a big party as you get in other countries, so don’t expect a wild night. Save that for July (see below).
Galette des rois
As the new year begins, boulangeries fill up with special cakes wearing gold crowns. These are the galettes des rois, traditionally eaten on January 6th to mark epiphany, along with a complicated ceremony to decide who will be lucky in the year ahead.
If you’re in south west France the ‘black diamond’ season runs from December to March as the black truffles particular to the region are harvested and sold off at specialist markets.
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February sees La Chandeleur, the day when the French eat crêpes and indulge in more complicated rituals to bring luck for the year ahead (hey, everybody needs a bit of luck, right?)
Easter marks a two-week holiday for French schools and a single day off for French workers – Easter Monday is a holiday in France but only workers in the Alsace-Lorraine region get Good Friday off, for reasons to do with war with Germany.
Riots and lucky flowers
May 1st, the international workers’ day, is a public holiday in France, usually marked big marches from trade unions and much smaller riots from the usual suspects.
If you’re not a fan of rioting you could always join in the other May Day tradition of buying a muguet (Lily-of-the-Valley) flower. These are sold across France in aid of various good causes and are said to bring (what else?) good luck to the buyer.
Double public holiday month #1
May sees two public holidays, May 1st and the commemoration of VE Day on May 8th, although whether you get extra time off work depends on the year.
As the temperatures begin to rise big coats are cast aside and suddenly the wine shops are full of rosé. A lightly chilled rosé wine is of course a classic summer drink for any occasion and is especially popular in Provence where many rosés are made.
Good weather also means picnics, which the French tend to take more seriously than other nations. If you’re invited to a picnic don’t think you can get away with bringing a ham sandwich and a couple of bags of crisps – think salads, a selection of good cheeses or charcuterie, fresh baguette, something from the patisserie to finish with and of course, wine.
Soft fruit as far as the eye can see
Seasonality of fruit and vegetables is more strictly observed in France and as many soft fruits come into season in the summer months expect to see peaches, apricots, strawberries piled high at your local market once the harvests begin.
July 14th marks France’s Fête nationale (known as Bastille Day in the anglophone world) which is a public holiday and also sees lots of military parades. But the best bit is the Bals de pompiers (firemen’s balls) which France’s famously well-toned firefighters host at their stations for the general public.
Everyone on the beach
July and August are the summer holiday months when French cities empty out and French people decamp to the beaches or the mountains. You can pretty much forget about getting much work done over the summer as most people will be away but you might enjoy the feeling of a strangely deserted Paris (apart from in the tourist spots).
Everyone holidaying at the same time means a grand return to work in September as schools and universities begin a new academic year, parliament begins sitting again and most people head back to their workplaces. Avoid driving on the final weekend before la rentrée unless you particularly enjoy sitting in traffic jams.
Foire aux vins
The wine harvest begins in September and October, depending on the weather and the region, and shops clear their shelves with foires aux vins – wine sales.
Mushroom foraging season
As mushrooms come into season you will see heaped stalls at the market, but many French people also enjoy foraging for their own mushrooms. Fortunately, pharmacies offer a mushroom-checking service to ensure that your haul is safe to be eaten.
If you live in the country now is the time to be ready to duck as the hunting season begins. Hunting in France largely involves shooting and hunters are not always the most scrupulous about health and safety, so it pays to be wary if you’re walking in the country when la chasse is out.
Huge coats and scarves season
As soon as the temperatures begin to drop even a couple of degrees in September, the French dig out their big coats and scarves, even though the weather may still seem pretty mild to anyone who grew up in northern Europe or the northern states of the USA.
Halloween is not as a big a deal in France as in the USA, although it is gradually becoming more popular but November 1st is All Saints Day (Toussaint) and that is a public holiday. Schools also have a two-week holiday around this period.
With the end of the year in sight, calendars go on sale and many groups sell their own door-to-door to aid good causes.
Cold weather brings with it a variety of France’s heartier winter classics, in particular the delicious melted cheese dishes of raclette and fondue, which are traditionally only eaten as the temperatures fall.
Double holiday month #2
November is another month that always has two holidays – November 1st (Toussaint) and Armistice Day on November 11th.
Cold weather also means hot wine and the hot, spiced vin chaud is widely sold throughout the cold months in France, sometimes at special stalls or at Christmas markets but also in ordinary bars and cafés if you need a winter warmer.
Tradition (coming from a time before fridges were invented) dictates that oysters should only be eaten in months that have an ‘r’ in the name, which basically means winter.
Popular throughout the season they’re a really big deal at Christmas where they play a starring role in the traditional seafood banquet.
If you really love Christmas head to north-east France where the influence of neighbouring Germany ensures the best Christmas markets and traditions. Christmas festivals, markets and events exist across France, however, with lots of presents and special treats. Children get another two weeks off school.