Why France's Burgundy vineyards are more vulnerable to extreme weather

AFP - [email protected] • 27 Sep, 2021 Updated Mon 27 Sep 2021 11:37 CEST
Why France's Burgundy vineyards are more vulnerable to extreme weather
A picture taken on October 13, 2017 shows the chateau of Gevrey-Chambertin and its nearby vineyard, part of the grape variety of Burgundy. (Photo by ERIC FEFERBERG / AFP)

Growers across France are reporting catastrophic grape harvests this year thanks to unseasonally late frosts followed by heavy rain, hail and disease. But the highly-prized vineyards of Burgundy are more vulnerable than most.


Growers are warning of the poorest harvests in memory.

"In a normal year it would be full by 9.30am," said Julien Cheveau as he watched workers dump grapes into a cart at the muddy edge of his field in Solutre-Pouilly, part of the famed Pouilly-Fuisse appellation.

But as the lunch break approaches, the mound of golden yellow grapes has yet to reach the top of the bin.

The very factors that make Burgundy whites and reds a favourite of wine fans - small but prestigious houses, the predominance of chardonnay grapes, relatively high altitudes - make the region particularly vulnerable to extreme weather.

And while 2021 has been an exceptionally bad year for growers across France including the famed Champagne region, climatologists are warning that extreme and unpredictable weather patterns are here to stay.

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An April cold snap struck from Bordeaux in the southwest to Champagne in the northeast, but in Burgundy night-time lows plunged to -8C.

And Chardonnay grapes, which make up two-thirds of Burgundy, suffered more than others from the freezing temperatures, destroying buds just as they were emerging after a mild winter.

"Eventually the vines started growing again but then we had a huge hailstorm on June 21st, and all our hopes were obliterated in 15 minutes," said Aurelie Cheveau, Julien's sister-in-law and co-manager of their namesake vineyard.

Then came September downpours that fostered rapid mildew growth just as ripening was at hand - she pointed with her shears to bunches of shrivelled grapes, and others shot through with purple veins and covered with fine white fuzz, the hallmark of rot.

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"There's really not much left. In certain areas we'll have losses of up to 95 percent," she said, with estimates of 70 to 90 percent for Pouilly-Fuisse as a whole.

The rest of Burgundy was also hit with losses far exceeding the 30 percent forecast for French vineyards overall.

"I've lost 75 to 80 percent here," said Ludivine Griveau, director of the storied Hospices de Beaune, amid half-filled crates of pinot noir from the renowned slopes of Corton.

She said she'll be lucky if losses are kept to 50 percent at the rest of the 60 hectares that abut the historic hospital, whose wines include Pommard and Echezeaux appellations.

"This year I only ordered 35 barrels, usually it's 120 to 150," Griveau said.

Even if the quality of the surviving vintages remains stellar, price hikes spurred by rarity are unlikely to make up for the lower output.

That could put the squeeze on Burgundy houses in particular, since most are  smaller operations - the average vineyard is just six and a half hectares.

That means they don't have the extensive domains and financial stamina of bigger producers found elsewhere in France.

"These yields are historically low," said Francois Labet, president of the Burgundy Wine Bureau, estimating overall losses at 30 to 50 percent.

"I don't know a single area that was spared the cold snap," he said.

This year has also heightened fears that climate change could make extreme weather - cold and rain but also devastating droughts as in 2003 - more common in the region.

"Since 2010, we've only had two years without major problems: 2017 and 2018," Labet said.

For Aurelie Cheveau, the risks are clear.

"In 2019, we only got half our harvest, it was already due to the frost," she said.

"If every other year is like that, it makes you wonder where our profession is headed."


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