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July 14th: What’s planned for France’s Bastille Day celebrations this year?

Last year's celebrations were hampered by the Covid pandemic, but this year you will be able to celebrate la fête nationale in style.

July 14th: What's planned for France's Bastille Day celebrations this year?
Paris's military parade was significantly toned down in 2020. Photo: Lionel BONAVENTURE / AFP.

July 14th is a public holiday in France, commemorating the storming of the Bastille that was the symbolic start of the French Revolution. Here’s what’s planned for the fête nationale this year.

Military parade

The Bastille Day military parade along the Champs-Élysées has been a staple of the fête nationale since 1880, and it will be making a return this year.

The parade was cancelled in 2020 – the first year it hadn’t taken place since the World War II – and was replaced by a smaller ceremony at Place de la Concorde celebrating healthcare workers and others engaged in the fight against Covid.

This time, the spectacle will include 4,300 marching soldiers, 71 planes, 25 helicopters, 221 land vehicles and 200 horses of the Republican Guard. President Emmanuel Macron will be present for the parade, which is set to begin at 10am.

The general public will be allowed to follow proceedings from the Champs-Elysées, while 25,000 people will be able to watch from the seated stands, according to AFP.

Spectators will be required to show a health pass – with proof of vaccination, a recent negative test, or proof they have recovered from Covid – and will also have to wear a mask.

Numbers will be limited, but it is not possible to register for a standing place in advance, so you may need to arrive early to be sure of a place.

As part of the security measures vehicles will be denied access to a large area around the Champs-Elysées.

A number of metro stations will also be closed to the public during the day. These are: Tuileries, Concorde, Champs-Elysées Clémenceau, Franklin D.Roosevelt, Georges V, and Charles de Gaulle Etoile.

Air show

Some of the best views of the airshow, which will paint the sky the colours of the French flag at 10.30am, are to be had from the Grande Arche de la Défense. The rooftop of the Grande Arche will be open to the public and offers stunning views over the Champs-Elysées.

The same location was also set to host DJ sets from the Doppelgänger brothers and Bob Sinclair in the evening, but these have been cancelled due to the spread of Covid in the Paris region.

Champs-de-Mars concert

For the ninth consecutive year, celebrations will continue with a classical music concert on the Champ-de-Mars at the foot of the Eiffel Tower.

The concert will feature the Orchestre national de France, the Chœur and the Maîtrise de Radio France, and will be broadcast live from 9pm on France Inter and France 2.

There is no need to register – anybody is free to turn up at the Champs-de-Mars and follow the concert, but you are invited to arrive 45 minutes early to allow time for security checks.

READ ALSO France’s biggest celebration: What you need to know about Bastille Day

Last year, the concert took place with a virtual audience only.

For the first time this year, the Fip radio station will also be organising a “before show” on the Champs de Mars – a 45-minute DJ set which will begin at 7:30pm.

Fireworks

Of course, no July 14th would be complete without the traditional fireworks display. Last year, crowds were banned from gathering to watch the spectacle, but this year, locals and visitors are invited to follow along from Paris’s parks.

Several towns including Lille have decided to cancel the fireworks, amid fears over the spread of the delta variant of Covid. On Sunday, local authorities in Paris confirmed the show would be going ahead, but warned that spectators will have to wear a mask while gathering on the Champ-de-Mars.

“Place du Trocadéro is the best place to witness the pyrotechnics,” the local tourism office advises.

Similar displays will illuminate the sky in towns all across France, but beware – certain local councils will require attendees to show a health pass, with an up-to-date negative Covid test or vaccination certificate, so be sure to look up the local restrictions before heading out.

No firemen’s balls

One of the most cherished Bastille Day traditions is the bals de pompiers, or parties in fire stations.

These are not explicitly banned this year, but in the context of the health situation, many areas have decided not to stage them.

Cities including Paris, Nantes and Strasbourg have cancelled for the second year in a row, but other areas may still be holding scaled down social events.

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CULTURE

Skulls, beer and a ‘cathedral’: Discover the secrets of underground Paris

You've certainly heard of the Metro, maybe the catacombs and perhaps even the Phantom of the Opera's underground lake - but there are some things lurking beneath Paris that might surprise you.

Skulls, beer and a 'cathedral': Discover the secrets of underground Paris

One of Europe’s most densely populated cities, Paris has over two million people living within its boundaries. As those inhabitants walk along the Champs-Elysées or Rue de Rivoli, they might be entirely unaware of the extensive underground world that exists below their feet. 

These are some of the hidden gems beneath the famous monuments in the City of Light:

Skulls, beer and police

The final resting place for over six million Parisians – the catacombs are the most well-known part of underground Paris, but did you know that the 1,700 metres of catacombs that are open to the public represent less than one percent of the whole of the catacombs in Paris? In fact, the underground network is thought to be around 300 km in size.

The catacombs are also known as the Ossuaire Municipal, and they are located at the site of former limestone quarries. The Ossuaire as we know it was created during the 18th century, because the city’s cemeteries could not withstand its population growth and public health concerns began to be raised. Gradually the remains of millions of Parisians were moved underground.

The bones of Parisians only comprise a small section of Paris’ ‘carrières‘ (or quarries), which can be seen in the above map.

These subterranean passages have fascinated cataphiles for many years – with stories of secret parties, illicit tunnel exploration and much more. During the Covid lockdowns, the catacombs infamously served as a location for clandestine parties. At one point, over 35 people were ticketed for participating in underground raves

The network even has its own police service, the Intervention and Protection Group, known colloquially as the cataflics, who are a specialised police brigade in charge of monitoring the old quarries in Paris.

Though these quarries might be a location to secretly throw back a few pints, they are also connected to beer for another reason, as they are the ideal environment to both store and make beer – with consistently cool temperatures and nearby access to underground water sources.

In 1880, the Dumesnil brewery, located in the 14th arrondissement, invested in the quarries underneath its premises, using them to store the thousands of barrels of beer that it produced each year. Over the years, the brewery simply turned its basement into a real underground factory. 

If you really want to visit the ancient underground quarries specifically, you don’t have to just go to the catacombs. You can also do so by visiting the “Carrières des Capucins.” Found just below the Cochin hospital, located in the 14th arrondissement, access to these tunnels is allowed to the public (with reservation) in small groups.

As for entering the rest of the old quarry system, that has been illegal to enter the old quarries since 1955, which has not stopped several curious visitors and explorers from trying to discover what secrets might be underground. 

Sewer Museum

Recently renovated, this museum might not be at the top of a tourist’s list in the same way the Louvre or Musée d’Orsay might, but the museum of sewers actually has a lot of fascinating history to share. It took almost a century to build Paris’ sewage system, and it is largely to thank for the city’s growth, protecting the public health of inhabitants by helping prevent disease outbreaks. 

Visiting the sewers is not a new activity either – according to the museum’s website, “as early as 1867, the year of the World’s Fair, visits were met with immense public success, the reason being that this underground space had always been hidden from the curious eyes of all those who dwell on the surface of Paris.”

Ghost stations

A total of 16 Metro stations go unused underground in Paris – some were built and never put into use, others were decommissioned after World War II.

The most famous is Porte des Lilas – a working Metro station that has an unused ‘ghost’ section which these days is used for filming scenes in movies and TV.

If you’ve ever watched a scene set in the Metro, chances are it was filmed at Porte des Lilas, which has a section of track that Metro cars can move along if needed for action sequences. 

The extra section was taken out of commission in 1939 due to under-use, and in the 1950s it served as a place to test new metro cars.

Beware if you find yourself in Haxo station – it does not have its own entrance or exit and is only accessible by following the Metro tunnels. It is one of the six that never opened, similar to Porte Molitor, Orly-Sud, La Défense-Michelet, or Élysée-La Défense.

Other stations were closed for being too close to other stations, such as the Saint-Martin station, which was closed after World War II as it was too close to Strasbourg-Saint Denis. 

These phantom stations are usually off-limits to the public, but sometimes access is allowed for special guided tours or events.

Reminders of World War II 

Paris’ underground played an important role during the Second World War.

First, there is the French resistance command bunker, which is now part of the Musée de la Libération at Place Denfert Rochereau.

It was from here that Resistance leaders co-ordinated the battle for the liberation of Paris in 1944.

There is also the anti-bombardment bunker near Gare de l’Est. Normally this is closed during the year, but it is opened on Heritage Day in September. (Journées de patrimoine). 

The bunker was originally commissioned in 1939 to keep trains running, even in the event of a gas attack, and it was completed by the Germans in November 1941. It is located between Metro tracks 3 and 4. The bunker itself – which can fit up to 50 people – has basically been frozen in time, featuring a control room and telephone. 

Another river

You’ve heard of the Seine, but what about the underground river that flows through the city of Paris? Prior to the 20th century, the Bièvre river flowed through the city as well, running through Paris’ 13th and 5th arrondisements. Once upon a time, tanners and dyers set up shop next to the Bievre, shown in the image below. 

The river eventually became quite polluted and concerns arose that it might be a health hazard, so in 1875, as part of his transformation of the city, Georges-Eugène Haussmann decided that the Bièvre had to go. It was mostly covered up, and now what remains of the river flows beneath the city, with some parts of it joining Paris’ sewage system.

The Phantom’s lake

If you are a fan of Phantom of the Opera, you would know that the Phantom’s lair is below the Palais Garnier (the Opera house), and that Christine and the Phantom must cross a subterranean lake to get there.

This body of water is not a figment the imagination of Gaston Leroux – though not an actual lake, a large water tank can be found below the grounds. It is even used to train firefighters to swim in the dark.

The Phantom’s not real, though (probably).

‘Cathedral’

The Montsouris reservoir is one of Paris’ primary drinking water sources, along with L’Haÿ-les-Roses, Saint-Cloud, Ménilmontant and Les Lilas.

But while it’s undoubtedly very useful, it’s most famous for its looks.

The structure resembles a kind of underground water cathedral and is home to over 1,800 pillars, which support its numerous vaults and arches. It’s closed to the public, but its rare beauty means that it’s often photographed by urban explorers.

Mushroom farms

And last but not least – the ‘mushroom houses.’ Les champignons de Paris have been grown below the capital’s soil for centuries.

READ MORE: Inside Paris’ underground mushroom farms

“Paris mushrooms” have been grown since the 17th century. The rosé des près (meadow pink) mushrooms were a favourite of Louis XIV and were originally grown overground – their colour comes from the limestone that Paris is build on.

By the 19th century they went underground, which provided more space and allowed the fungi to be cultivated year-round, but eventually the construction of the Paris Metro pushed many growers out of the capital.

Today, there are just five traditional producers in operation – Shoua-moua Vang runs the largest underground mushroom cave in the Paris region, spread across one and a half hectares of tunnels in a hill overlooking the Seine river. 

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