‘Last threshold to get back to normality’ – French cafés and restaurants prepare to fully reopen

As France's bars, cafés and restaurants prepare to fully reopen, some proprietors are delighted to be returning to a sense of normality, while others worry about the new requirements such as QR codes to record customer details, as Eve Hebron found out.

'Last threshold to get back to normality' - French cafés and restaurants prepare to fully reopen
Cafes, restaurants and bars can fully reopen on Wednesday. Photo: Bertrand Guay/AFP

Stage 3 of France’s reopening on Wednesday brings several big changes for the country’s embattled hospitality industry – cafés, bars and restaurants can reopen their indoor spaces for the first time since October 2020 and the curfew moves back to 11pm, ensuring a more usual nighttime trade.

Just off Arts and Métiers, on Rue des Gravilliers, sits Cafe L’Attirail. Pre-Cvoid, this bar was jam packed with students and young people in search of a cheap pint and the establishment’s famous garlic potatoes which are always offered free along with a drink purchase.

“11pm will be much better …  9pm is difficult because that’s the time people are experiencing their peak enjoyment, so to cut it short is a shame,” says the bar’s owner.

“It’s better than it was before, but people finish work and have to rush to have a drink before 9pm … 11pm will be much better and will make people’s lives less stressful,” says Karim, one of the brothers who co-own Le Village, a popular bar in Paris’ 18th arrondissement.

READ ALSO Bars, curfew and travel – what changes in France on Wednesday 

With many of Paris’ bars and restaurants focused upon evening hospitality, many didn’t reopen on the first allowed date of May 19th.

For many, opening up until 9pm simply wasn’t worth it and limited space on terraces as well as rollercoaster weather forecasts meant the risk was too high.

A waiter poses in front of the terrace of his café in Paris ahead of the reopening. Photo by Lucas BARIOULET / AFP

New rules

From Wednesday, cafés will be able to operate 100 percent of their outside space, as well as 50 percent of their indoor space, although tables will still be limited to six people and bar service banned.

In addition to these restrictions, owners are now required to collect customer details so that they can be traced in the case of a Covid outbreak.

Most have taken up the government’s offer of a QR code that can be scanned with a smartphone to collect details from each customer, but plenty also have a pen-and-paper option for people who prefer the old-fashioned way.

READ ALSO QR codes and sign-ins – how France’s reopened restaurants will keep track of customers

Details are only required from customers eating or drinking inside, it is not obligatory for on the outdoor terraces.

At Bistrot Marguerite, just off Paris’ Hotel de Ville, there’s a sign prompting people to download the government’s TousAntiCovid app in order to be able to scan these codes.

“We’ve put out all the resources, but it’s whether the customer is willing to download the app or record their details on the notepad. That’s something the government can’t force customers to do,” says waiter Thomas.

I don’t have a smartphone’

Jules, a graphic designer, sits on the terrace with friends for a post-work pint.

“It seems like people are assuming customers won’t check-in with the QR code, but I think myself and my friends would if we were all going for a meal.

“It might be different if it was just drinks because there’s less formality, but we’d probably sit on a terrace [where QR check-in codes are not obligatory] for a drink anyway.”

Annette, a retired teacher who lives in the 4th arrondissement, is enjoying a coffee in the sunshine at the Bistrot.

“I don’t have a smartphone” she says, “and even if I did, I’m not sure I’d download the application in order to scan the code … it seems like a lot of effort to have a coffee inside on a rainy day”.

Madeline and Juliette, aged 17 and 18, are also sat on the terrace enjoying a cold drink whilst completing their homework.

“I don’t see the problem … the government has said they won’t be collecting data from a person when that person scans the QR code. If it means a fast and easy way of keeping track and control of potential cases, people should realise it’s important” says Madeline.

Juliette agrees: “If the café or restaurant has gone to the effort of making somewhere safe, customers should respect that and obey the rules”.

QR codes will not apply to customers sitting outside. Photo by Bertrand GUAY / AFP

‘Tourists won’t want to bother with all this’

The QR codes can only be scanned with the French Covid-tracking app TousAntiCovid. Although the app is available for non-French phones, establishments that cater for tourists worry that explaining all this will be complicated and difficult.

At Le Départ Saint Michel, close to Notre-Dame and usually popular with tourists, waiter Antoine is concerned.

“In the summer, this place is so busy throughout the day and even into the night” he says, “we have people from all over the world visiting, and with the borders opening up to tourists soon, it will be really difficult to keep track of … especially with so many language barriers [amongst tourists].

“They will have been on holiday for the first time in a long time, it’s doubtful they will want to have to worry about such things.”

Terrace only

And some owners have decided that reopening interiors is just too difficult – especially since the city of Paris has announced that the temporary expansion of terraces can become permanent.

Petit Pache, a natural wine bar in the 11th arrondissement, won’t be opening up the interior.

“The inside is too small for social distancing … and we’ve put all our interior furniture outside on the terrace so now there’s nothing left for the inside” says Maxence, who co-owns the bar with Elodie.

“We decided to capitalise on the terrace as it’s summer.”

Charlotte is the co-owner of Chinoiseries, a Chinese cuisine take-out business and a cook at Echo, a popular restaurant in the 2nd arrondissement.

“I wouldn’t be surprised if smaller restaurants or those that have been open already take a bit of a hit as their customers spread out to these newly opened places,” says Charlotte.  

“But I definitely think there will be a boom within the industry and I’ll be prepping for busier services. Also, many restaurants, especially higher end ones, have been shut since the second lockdown so I imagine people will be rushing to those.

 “It feels like one of the last thresholds to cross for life to return to normal again,” she added.

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How to get a summer job in France

As the summer holidays approach in France, many employers are looking for seasonal workers - so if you're looking for a summer job, here's how to go about it.

How to get a summer job in France

There are thousands of employment offers in France – a simple internet search for jobs d’été came up with numerous jobs boards offering work in France, while the government-backed Centre d’Information et de Documentation pour la Jeunesse (CIDJ) offers advice and information on all aspects of life for young people in France, including finding seasonal work and summer placements.

Sectors including agriculture, hospitality and tourism are always recruiting in the summer, seeking fruit-pickers, holiday camp workers and serving/hotel staff.

But what are the rules for people seeking summer jobs?

READ ALSO Vendange: What you really sign up for when you agree to help with the French wine harvest


Children from the age of 16 (under certain circumstances, the age limit drops to 14) who are legally resident in France can work as long as they have written authorisation from their parents or legal guardians. A model authorisation letter is available here

Those under the age of 18 cannot undertake certain jobs for health and safety reasons.

In the following circumstances, children as young as 14 or 15 can work during school holidays.

  • The holidays must last at least 14 days;
  • The child must work no more than half the days of the holiday – so, if a vacation period is two weeks, they can work for no more than one of those weeks;
  • The child is given ‘light duties’ that offer no risk to their safety, health, or development;
  • From the age of 15 and if the child has completed their troisieme education, a minor can register for an apprenticeship. 


Salary is usually paid monthly and will have a payslip. For those aged 18 and over, pay will be at least equal to the minimum wage.

 For those aged 14 to 17, who have less than six months’ professional experience, the minimum allowed rate is 80 percent of the minimum wage. For those aged 17 to 18, the rate rises to a minimum of 90 percent of France’s minimum wage.

  • The minimum wage in France is currently €10.85 gross per hour (€1,645.58 gross per month based on a 35-hour week);
  • the employment contract is fixed-term and can take different forms (fixed-term contract, seasonal employment contract, temporary employment contract, etc);
  • Seasonal employees are subject to the same obligations as the other employees of the company and have access to the same benefits (canteens, breaks, etc.).

Under 18s have certain additional protections:

  • between the ages of 14 and 16, during school holidays, employees on any contract cannot work more than 35 hours per week nor more than 7 hours per day;
  • They cannot work at night;
  • Those aged 14 to under 16 working during their school holidays can only be assigned to work which is not likely to harm their safety, their health or development.

Right to work in France

If you’re a French citizen or hold permanent residency in France then you have the right to work, but for foreigners there are extra restrictions.

Anyone who holds the passport of a EU/EEA country or Switzerland, is free to work in France or to travel to France seeking work without needing a visa or work permit.

Most other people will need permission to work in France – even if it’s only for a short period or for casual work such as grape-picking. Depending on your country of origin you may need a visa – everything you need to know about that is here.

In addition to the visa, you may also need a work permit, which is the responsibility of the employer.  To employ anyone in France for less than 90 days, an employer must get a temporary work permit – before the prospective employee applies for a short stay visa. This permit is then sent to the embassy at which the employee is applying for a visa.

If you come from countries including the UK, USA and Canada you can spend up to 90 days in France without a visa – but you may still need a work (convention d’accueil) if you want to work while you are here.

READ ALSO Six official websites to know if you’re planning to work in France

Certain countries have specific ‘seasonal worker’ visas on offer, for certain sectors which allows – for example – Canadians to come to France and work the ski season. 

Cash-in-hand jobs

Certain sectors which have a lot of casual workers – for example seasonal fruit-picking – do have cash-in-hand jobs, known in France as marché noir (black market) or simply travail au black (working on the black, or working illegally). 

This is of course illegal and working this way carries risks – as well as the possibility of losing your job if labour inspectors turn up you are also in a vulnerable position. If your employer suddenly decides not to pay you, or make unexpected deductions from your wages, there is very little you can do about it since you won’t have any kind of work contract.