‘Last threshold to get back to normality’ – French cafés and restaurants prepare to fully reopen

As France's bars, cafés and restaurants prepare to fully reopen, some proprietors are delighted to be returning to a sense of normality, while others worry about the new requirements such as QR codes to record customer details, as Eve Hebron found out.

'Last threshold to get back to normality' - French cafés and restaurants prepare to fully reopen
Cafes, restaurants and bars can fully reopen on Wednesday. Photo: Bertrand Guay/AFP

Stage 3 of France’s reopening on Wednesday brings several big changes for the country’s embattled hospitality industry – cafés, bars and restaurants can reopen their indoor spaces for the first time since October 2020 and the curfew moves back to 11pm, ensuring a more usual nighttime trade.

Just off Arts and Métiers, on Rue des Gravilliers, sits Cafe L’Attirail. Pre-Cvoid, this bar was jam packed with students and young people in search of a cheap pint and the establishment’s famous garlic potatoes which are always offered free along with a drink purchase.

“11pm will be much better …  9pm is difficult because that’s the time people are experiencing their peak enjoyment, so to cut it short is a shame,” says the bar’s owner.

“It’s better than it was before, but people finish work and have to rush to have a drink before 9pm … 11pm will be much better and will make people’s lives less stressful,” says Karim, one of the brothers who co-own Le Village, a popular bar in Paris’ 18th arrondissement.

READ ALSO Bars, curfew and travel – what changes in France on Wednesday 

With many of Paris’ bars and restaurants focused upon evening hospitality, many didn’t reopen on the first allowed date of May 19th.

For many, opening up until 9pm simply wasn’t worth it and limited space on terraces as well as rollercoaster weather forecasts meant the risk was too high.

A waiter poses in front of the terrace of his café in Paris ahead of the reopening. Photo by Lucas BARIOULET / AFP

New rules

From Wednesday, cafés will be able to operate 100 percent of their outside space, as well as 50 percent of their indoor space, although tables will still be limited to six people and bar service banned.

In addition to these restrictions, owners are now required to collect customer details so that they can be traced in the case of a Covid outbreak.

Most have taken up the government’s offer of a QR code that can be scanned with a smartphone to collect details from each customer, but plenty also have a pen-and-paper option for people who prefer the old-fashioned way.

READ ALSO QR codes and sign-ins – how France’s reopened restaurants will keep track of customers

Details are only required from customers eating or drinking inside, it is not obligatory for on the outdoor terraces.

At Bistrot Marguerite, just off Paris’ Hotel de Ville, there’s a sign prompting people to download the government’s TousAntiCovid app in order to be able to scan these codes.

“We’ve put out all the resources, but it’s whether the customer is willing to download the app or record their details on the notepad. That’s something the government can’t force customers to do,” says waiter Thomas.

I don’t have a smartphone’

Jules, a graphic designer, sits on the terrace with friends for a post-work pint.

“It seems like people are assuming customers won’t check-in with the QR code, but I think myself and my friends would if we were all going for a meal.

“It might be different if it was just drinks because there’s less formality, but we’d probably sit on a terrace [where QR check-in codes are not obligatory] for a drink anyway.”

Annette, a retired teacher who lives in the 4th arrondissement, is enjoying a coffee in the sunshine at the Bistrot.

“I don’t have a smartphone” she says, “and even if I did, I’m not sure I’d download the application in order to scan the code … it seems like a lot of effort to have a coffee inside on a rainy day”.

Madeline and Juliette, aged 17 and 18, are also sat on the terrace enjoying a cold drink whilst completing their homework.

“I don’t see the problem … the government has said they won’t be collecting data from a person when that person scans the QR code. If it means a fast and easy way of keeping track and control of potential cases, people should realise it’s important” says Madeline.

Juliette agrees: “If the café or restaurant has gone to the effort of making somewhere safe, customers should respect that and obey the rules”.

QR codes will not apply to customers sitting outside. Photo by Bertrand GUAY / AFP

‘Tourists won’t want to bother with all this’

The QR codes can only be scanned with the French Covid-tracking app TousAntiCovid. Although the app is available for non-French phones, establishments that cater for tourists worry that explaining all this will be complicated and difficult.

At Le Départ Saint Michel, close to Notre-Dame and usually popular with tourists, waiter Antoine is concerned.

“In the summer, this place is so busy throughout the day and even into the night” he says, “we have people from all over the world visiting, and with the borders opening up to tourists soon, it will be really difficult to keep track of … especially with so many language barriers [amongst tourists].

“They will have been on holiday for the first time in a long time, it’s doubtful they will want to have to worry about such things.”

Terrace only

And some owners have decided that reopening interiors is just too difficult – especially since the city of Paris has announced that the temporary expansion of terraces can become permanent.

Petit Pache, a natural wine bar in the 11th arrondissement, won’t be opening up the interior.

“The inside is too small for social distancing … and we’ve put all our interior furniture outside on the terrace so now there’s nothing left for the inside” says Maxence, who co-owns the bar with Elodie.

“We decided to capitalise on the terrace as it’s summer.”

Charlotte is the co-owner of Chinoiseries, a Chinese cuisine take-out business and a cook at Echo, a popular restaurant in the 2nd arrondissement.

“I wouldn’t be surprised if smaller restaurants or those that have been open already take a bit of a hit as their customers spread out to these newly opened places,” says Charlotte.  

“But I definitely think there will be a boom within the industry and I’ll be prepping for busier services. Also, many restaurants, especially higher end ones, have been shut since the second lockdown so I imagine people will be rushing to those.

 “It feels like one of the last thresholds to cross for life to return to normal again,” she added.

Member comments

Log in here to leave a comment.
Become a Member to leave a comment.


Warning: 6 of the most common scams in France to watch out for

From computer hacking to phone calls, a new report reveals that scams and frauds are unfortunately on the rise in France and the criminals are getting more sophisticated - here are some of the most common frauds to be aware of.

Warning: 6 of the most common scams in France to watch out for

France’s fraud and financial crime watchdog, Tracfin, has published its annual report, indicating that fraudulent activity has become both more frequent and more evolved in the last year.

The report highlighted the most significant forms of fraud tracked by the watchdog. In particular, it found that CPF (Compte Personnel de Formation) scams represented a significant proportion of the fraudulent activity registered this year. 

These are the scams the report highlighted:

The CPF scam: The Compte Personnel de Formation is available to all employees in France. Essentially, they are given access to money each year for free professional training (€800 for unskilled workers, €500 for full-time, skilled workers).

This is a real, government-backed scheme with a genuine website and app – it’s particularly useful for foreigners in France because the money can be used for French classes. Here’s how it works.

Unfortunately, however, the name is frequently used by scammers and Tracfin director Guillaume Valette-Valla warned that these scams have become more professional, often now involving transnational criminal organisations, particularly those located outside the EU, as well as shell companies that exist to siphon off the public money.

A lot of these scams involve SMS messages and phone calls warning people that they would lose their allowance and urging them to sign up to training courses have become increasingly frequent. These messages often contain fraudulent links asking recipients to enter their personal details onto dodgy websites.

The presence of CPF shell companies dramatically increased in 2021, according to the report. Tracfin received 116 reports of suspicion of shell companies, which is a significant increase from the 10 reported in 2020. 

For CPF fraud overall, the scams racked in accounted for over €43.2 million compared to €7.8 million a year earlier.

READ MORE: Beyond the scams: How to use France’s €500 training budget

The carte vitale scam – if you live in France your carte vitale is a vital document, allowing you to access publicly funded healthcare.

An increasingly common scam is sending a text message or email telling a person that their carte vitale is about to expire, and to click on the link and enter their details to keep it active. This is a scam, the carte vitale does not expire. If you need to make any changes to your card or request a new one if you have lost of stolen it, use your online Ameli account or visit your local CPAM office.

Driving scams – summer is the time of year when thousands of people – both locals and tourists – take to the roads for a trip away, and scammers often prey on drivers.

Some scammers operate at service stations, approaching non-French drivers and spinning them a sob story to try and extort money, while others operate insurance scams by pretending that you have damaged their car. There are also sporadic reports of ‘fake cops’ who try to issue on-the-spot cash fines to cars with foreign number plates.

Driving in France: The common scams thieves try on foreign motorists

Postal scams – it’s a very common experience to get a message from La Poste or a parcel courier telling you that you were out when they tried to deliver a package. Usually you will just need to arrange another time or head to the post office, but beware of text messages or emails telling you that there are outstanding charges for a parcel, with a link to enter your card details.

Couriers do not operate like this and if there are any outstanding postage or customs charges, you pay them in person not via a link in an email or SMS.

Ransomware attacks – France also saw a rise in ransomware attacks – particularly those targeting small businesses.

In 2021, the French National Agency for Information Systems Security (ANSSI) handled 203 ransomware attacks, compared to 192 in 2020 and 69 in 2019. This represents an increase of 194 percent increase in incidents handled in two years. These attacks were predominantly (over 52 percent) targeted at very small, small and medium-sized businesses.

Ransomware attacks are on the rise for two reasons: a lack of digital literacy and security, and an increased specialisation and professionalisation of the criminal ecosystem.

Fraud on government schemes: Tracfin also noted a rise in fraudulent declarations for government schemes, particularly those made available as emergency responses to the Covid-19 crisis.

These were mostly represented by misuse of compensation for short-time work, emergency aid for companies, self-employed people and business owners, and state-guaranteed loans.

Looking forward – the report also warned how NFTs (Non-fungible tokens) could constitute an additional fraud and cybersecurity risk for people across the country.

So far, Tracfin has received reports of scams involving NFTs whose value has been artificially increased (“pump and dump”), NFTs copying or plagiarizing original works without having the copyright or simply fake NFTs that disappear once they are downloaded from a fraudulent website. The watchdog also highlighted that NFTs could eventually be used for tax fraud. 

On top of tracking scams within France, Tracfin was also involved in tracking down the assets of Russian oligarchs after sanctions against Moscow went into place following the invasion of Ukraine, estimating that €1.18 billion worth of financial and non-financial assets have been frozen in France since the beginning of the conflict.

If you are contacted by a company and you are not sure if it is genuine, the French government has compiled a ‘blacklist’ of dodgy companies that frequently try and defraud people – you can find it here.

If you think you may have fallen victim to a scam, particularly if you have shared your banking information, the first step is to contact your bank. You can learn more about what to do in this scenario, HERE