OPINION: Here in rural France we’re a lot more stoic about the curfew than city types

There’s a scene in the war film The Great Escape, where Gordon Jackson reacts in English to a polite enquiry and the whole game is up, writes Ian Moore. He’s given himself away, self-incrimination.

OPINION: Here in rural France we're a lot more stoic about the curfew than city types
Resturants being closed after 6pm in winter is not unusual in small French towns. Photo: AFP

I’m reminded of this every time I’m asked if the locals here are observing the current Covid-related restrictions, particularly the curfew.

If I answer ‘yes’, then the questioner’s eyes narrow and the inevitable follow up is, ‘Oh yeah, and how do you know?’ And if I answer ‘no’, the questioner would be well within their rights to roll their eyes and say ‘Well, you’re a foreigner, how would you know?’

The insinuation being that immediately the clock strikes six, there’s a veritable Mardi Gras going on but I’m just not invited.

The truth is though that the curfew is being observed, the rural French world does shut down at six pm.

Now, I can hear some of you big city slickers snorting at that fact with a ‘So what’s new there then?’ and to be fair you’d have a point. The government’s curfew may begin at six in the evening, but the natural deep winter curfew for this remote part of the Loire Valley is never much beyond that mark anyway.

Parisians seem a lot more traumatised by the closure of their bars, cafés and bistrots. Photo: AFP

At this time of the year there are few bars open in the evening, and the restauranteurs are usually on congés annuelle in February, holed up in the Alps somewhere picking up tips on fondue.

And don’t talk to me about your problems getting a take away delivered, because the closest you’ll get around here is if you shoot down a passing pigeon and it lands in your garden.

As for shops, well there’s a big difference between shops in the larger towns and cities, and shops in small, rural towns and that basically boils down to the attitude of the shoppers.

We do our shopping in the daytime around here and feel very little need to dash out to a late-night Carrefour City at ten in the evening because of a sudden craving for Tapenade or cotton buds.

There is of course much more to it than all of that. Rural France is coping well with Covid restrictions because rural France copes well with pretty much everything.

Me aside, they are hardy, country stock who, over the last 150 years or more, have dealt with wars, famine, floods and big city indifference with the kind of stony-faced stoicism more associated with an Easter Island statue.

There are generations of families around here who have seen it all. Yes, the pandemic is serious, very serious, but life goes on. I also think that they see reports of disturbances and curfew-breaking in the cities and feel it’s their responsibility to rise above it.

City folk can stamp their feet like an adolescent denied the wifi password, the wise old country folk will be in a corner with a book. It feels sometimes with rural areas, France especially, that because they haven’t rushed ahead with technology in the same way that towns and cities have, they’re better able to deal with crises because their base is more solid.

They’ve seen it all before and that allows people to pretty much get on with things as they always have, or at least adapt with less foot-stomping fuss.

And people have adapted. Old men, now wearing masks slightly below the nose as though they’re truffle hunting, no longer embrace or shake the hand of their peers, but bang elbows or knuckles like teenage street gangs and giggle while doing so.

Markets continue but without the previously-obligatory kiss greeting of friends and acquaintances. Photo: AFP

Old women still list their endless ailments to each other outside the boulangerie, though in louder, mask-defying voices so that the whole town can hear, which is what they want anyway as ailment-listing is virtually a competitive sport among France’s older generation.

It’s a very country-side response, and probably rooted in agriculture, that it really only takes minor adjustments for things to be pretty much normal.

Personally, I’ll admit to secretly liking the new normal of social distancing, not because I’m cold or so British I view any form of tactile interaction with suspicion – though there might be an element of that – but because the politics, the social minefield, the anxiety of the complicated, often localised French greeting system is no longer in play. I can see acquaintances approaching me in the market now and not break into a cold sweat of panic.

The problem with the curfew will come when the evenings get longer, when the sun isn’t setting at 18.02 as it is today and I suspect the government are well aware of that and will change curfew times accordingly.

Whatever they choose to do next, people will manage around here because they always have and that’s a very comforting thought for this outsider especially.

Unless of course I’ve got this all completely wrong and that as an outsider I have a fuzzy-eyed view of what’s really happening and there’s a gang of six-year-olds using old WW2 tunnels to deliver late night pizza. Now that wouldn’t surprise me either.

Ian Moore is a best-selling author and comedian. He's also the owner of a Chambres d'hôtes in the Loire Valley where he lives with his Franco-Anglais wife, three children and a petting zoo whose creation he has yet to be consulted on. He writes regularly on life in rural France and you can find him at or on Twitter @MonsieurleMoore

Member comments

  1. The only thing snorting here is the smug author of this rant. Try dealing with shop closures at 6pm while working long hours and commuting to/from work.

  2. Does futurix really think that people in villages don’t commute to work? 1400 people in our village and most commute starting at 7:00 and driving home at 17:00. No public transport so we shop at the weekend for the week (and shops don’t open on sundays).

  3. Sorry, I wrote my comments before I read who wrote the article, and I guess it didn’t read as a joke to me. And I was pretty stressed that day – which I guess didn’t help…

  4. Perhaps it didn’t read as a joke because historically, to be a joke, a joke is funny. It’s an ‘I guess you had to be there’ type joke…. Or it’s just a load of cobblers.

  5. God save us from another so called “comedian” who’s as funny as the proverbial in a swimming pool. It’s about time this site owned up to the fact that all it is is a glorified blog and certainly not worth the annual fee if it thinks an article like this deserves being the lead story.

  6. Ooh, so many curmudgeons commenting 😀 Winter or lockdown getting to you?

    The article is well, written, tinged with some humour and surprisingly accurate based on my corner of rural France (if you ignore the cars zipping up the lane for about 2 hours AFTER curfew going Lord knows where as it is a dead end and has about 5 occupied properties on it).

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French film stars cut hair in support of Iran protests

Video shows several big-name French movie stars cutting their own hair in protest

French film stars cut hair in support of Iran protests

French film stars, including Isabelle Huppert, Juliette Binoche and Marion Cotillard, have cut locks of their hair in an Instagram video published on Wednesday in solidarity with women protesters in Iran.

Charlotte Rampling and Jane Birkin, two stars with close ties to France, also appeared in the video.

It came a day after more than 1,000 French film professionals, including actor Lea Seydoux and Cannes Film Festival head Thierry Fremaux, signed a petition “supporting the revolt by women in Iran”.

Women removing their headscarves and cutting their hair has been a key image of the protests in Iran that broke out last month.

They were sparked by the death of a young woman, Mahsa Amini, following her arrest by Iran’s “morality police” who enforce Iran’s strict dress code that requires women to cover their hair in public.

“The Iranian people, with women in front, are risking their lives to protest. These people want only the most basic freedoms. These women, these men, deserve our support,” said a message accompanying the video on Instagram.

The campaign was launched by a group of lawyers.

“It is impossible not to denounce, again and always, this terrible repression,” their message added.