‘If French bistros disappear life disappears’, Paris chef warns

Coronavirus took a terrible toll on an icon of French culture - the corner bistro - but it will survive, Paris chef and restaurant owner Alain Fontaine said on Friday.

'If French bistros disappear life disappears', Paris chef warns
Chef and restaurant owner Alain Fontaine togther with French President Emmanuel Macron at the traditional agricultural fair in Paris. Photo: AFP

“If bistros disappear, it's life that disappears,” Fontaine told journalists at Le Mesturet, the bistro he has run for 18 years in the heart of Paris, on Thursday.

The bistro is a place where one can “talk nonsense or discuss very important things,” he said, likening the French institution to the Irish pub.

Think of it as a “people's parliament”,  the 62-year-old said, quoting Honore de Balzac, the prolific chronicler of early 19th-century French society.

The numbers were already alarming before the crisis, dropping from 200,000 bistros and cafes at the beginning of the 20th century to a little over 50,000 after World War II to 25,000 today, Fontaine said.


'Vultures already here'

The coronavirus lockdown imposed in mid-March was a “disaster” for the sector, he said, noting that bars and restaurants remained open throughout the Nazi occupation of France during World War II.

But he dismissed dire predictions that up to 40 percent of the businesses would not survive the crisis, saying many would simply change hands.

Unfortunately however, large restaurant chains will snap up many small eateries, Fontaine predicted, telling members of the Paris-based Anglo-American Press Association: “The vultures are already here.”

Alain Fontaine in his restaurant Le Mesturet in Paris. Photo: AFP

'Saved by the Paris Mayor'

Cafes, bars and restaurants were finally allowed to reopen on June 2, though in the Paris region, considered at high risk of ongoing coronavirus spread, eating and drinking establishments were initially allowed to serve clients only at outside tables.

It was Paris Mayor Anne Hidalgo who “saved me” with the idea of cordoning off sections of streets to make room for outside tables, said Fontaine, who is spearheading a drive to win UNESCO recognition of the French bistro and cafe as intangible cultural heritage.

Thanks to the measure Le Mesturet is able to serve its traditional meals – like blanquette de veau and magret de canard, recipes that Fontaine learned from his mother – to an additional 40 diners outdoors.

Eateries like Fontaine's have been allowed to spread out along sidewalks and even set up tables in parking spaces and outside neighbouring businesses if the owners did not object.

“Anne Hidalgo knows her electorate,” Fontaine said, alluding to the fact that the mayor is tipped to win re-election on Sunday.


The COVID-19 epidemic has claimed more than 29,000 lives in France, one of the world's highest reported tolls.

Fontaine said Parisians need to be lured back to the bistro after months of self-isolation and working from home.

In addition, he joked, “we need a new D-Day landing” of tourists, noting that 30 percent of his clientele are visitors from abroad. 

France – normally the world's most visited country – lifted restrictions at European borders on June 15, and the tourism industry hopes that foreign visitors will start pouring in again as the summer season kicks off.

Neighbours Britain, Germany, Belgium, Italy and Spain make up the bulk of foreign visitors, with the United States and China not far behind – in normal times.

Fontaine, also heads an association of maitres restaurateurs – essentially chefs who insist on preparing all meals on site from fresh, raw ingredients.

If French bistros win UNESCO's nod, the time-honoured institution will join the likes of Mexican mariachi music and Mongolian calligraphy on the list of intangible heritage worthy of being safeguarded for future generations.

But Fontaine is not bothered if the dossier does not succeed next year, which would mean waiting another two years for the honour.

If it wins in 2023 it will be right before the Paris Olympics of 2024 – providing an excellent showcase for what he calls an “anchor of France's art of living”.

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France to roll out ID cards app

Technology is being rolled out to allow people to carry their French ID cards in an app form - and could be rolled out to other cards, including driving licences and cartes de séjour residency cards.

France to roll out ID cards app

Holders of French carte d’identité (ID cards) will soon be able to carry certified digital versions of them on their smartphone or other electronic devices, a decree published in the Journal Officiel has confirmed.

An official app is being developed for holders of the newer credit card-format ID cards that have information stored on a chip. A provisional test version of the app is expected at the end of May.

Users will be able to use the ID card app, when it becomes available, for a range of services “from checking in at the airport to renting a car”, according to Thierry Breton, EU Commissioner for the Internal Market.

All French citizens have an ID card, which can be used for proving identity in a range of circumstances and for travel within the EU and Schengen zone – the new app will be in addition to the plastic card that holders already have.

Under the plans, after downloading the app, card holders will need merely to hold the card close to their phone to transfer the required information. According to officials, the holder then can decide what information is passed on – such as proof of age, or home address – according to the situation.

The government has not given any examples of situations in which the app would need to be used, but has set out the main principles and the ambition of the plan: to allow everyone to identify themselves and connect to certain public and private organisations, in particular those linked to the France Connect portal.

READ ALSO What is France Connect and how could it make your life simpler?

Cards will continue to be issued for the foreseeable future – this is merely an extension of the existing system.

Only French citizens have ID cards, but if successful the app is expected to be rolled out to include other cards, such as driving licences, cartes de séjour residency cards or even visas. A digital wallet is being developed at the European level – Member States have until September to agree what it could contain.

READ ALSO Eight smartphone apps that make life in France a bit easier