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LIVING IN FRANCE

Everything you need to know about taking the train in France

As more and more people swap planes for trains, here's what you need to know about using the French rail network.

Everything you need to know about taking the train in France
Photo: Cisalpin1984 Train/Flickr

The French train system, almost exclusively operated by state-owned company SNCF, is admired in many countries for its efficiency and relative value. 

While people who actually use them on a everyday basis might dispute the system’s hallowed reputation, it’s hard to argue with the pleasure of getting on a TGV in Paris and ending up in Marseille just over three hours later or Bordeaux in two hours.

And if you’re still unconvinced, maybe SNCF’s rather cool advert will sway you.

Even so, travelling by train in France isn’t always a piece of cake. Here’s what you need to know about using them from people who learnt the hard way.

Types of train 

In addition to its lauded high-speed TGV trains, SNCF also runs;

TER trains –  local lines connecting smaller towns and villages

Intercité – the service linking major towns and cities

Transilien – suburban trains which service the greater Paris Île-de-France region. Within Paris, SNCF is also responsible for some of the suburban RER trains, although the Metro, bus and tram network is run by city operator RATP.

On the TGV routes, there are two options: InOui and Ouigo.

InOui trains which were officially launched in September 2018 are designed for greater passenger comfort and connectivity, whereas Ouigo is a budget service with low-cost tickets, restrictions on baggage and a timetable that might not suit everyone.

The two services are compared to the difference between an airline like Air France and a low-cost carrier like easyJet. If you’re travelling on a Ouigo service be sure to check your destination, just like budget airlines some services end at points quite some distance from your specified destination, such ‘Paris’ services that terminate in Massy, 24km away from Paris.

When to travel

Unsurprisingly French trains are very popular both with locals and tourists so travelling during busy periods like the school holidays can be hectic. 

“Always check start and end school holiday dates before booking and if you are lucky enough to have a flexible schedule, avoid those days entirely,” says seasoned TGV traveller, Barbara Learmonth. 

Also check the news to make sure there are no strikes planned for your journey date – while the French reputation for striking is slightly exaggerated, there has been at least one train strike in France every year since 1947 and industrial action is planned for the summer.

Places, trains and roads: France’s timetable for 2022 summer strikes

Remember to validate your ticket 

If you’re using a paper ticket, you need to validate it before boarding.

This should be done before you get on the train and can be done at one of the yellow SNCF validating machines on platforms. It’s worth pointing out that this applies to city public transport like the Paris Metro as well, you can be fined if you are caught travelling without a validated ticket.

Tickets can only be validated on the day of travel so you can’t get away with trying to save time by doing it ahead of schedule. 

People who book online don’t need to worry about this. If you’ve done this, just present your printout or electronic ticket to the inspector when asked.

Buying a ticket on the train

For those inevitable moments when the ticket machines are out of order or just aren’t there – usually when travelling on the regional TER trains, you can go to the conductor of the train who will charge you the same amount as the advanced ticket fee. 

And if the ticket booths were open but you were running late, you should still be proactive and find the conductor.

Barbara Learmonth says: “It may cost €6 or €7 more but a fine is much worse for not having a ticket. It’s your responsibility to find them before they check.” 

Another reader, Jennifer Freedman warns: “My 16-year-old daughter was fined €100 in late April because her connecting train (in Switzerland) arrived late and she didn’t have time to buy a ticket.” 

Departure boards

Trains will be displayed on boards with their final destination not necessarily where you are getting off. 

“Use the time and number of your train to find your platform. With local trains that have five digits often the first digit is not used on the display boards,” Barbara Learmonth says. 

Your train will either be displayed on the departure board as à l’heure (on time), retardé (delayed), annulé or supprimé (cancelled). You may also see a service described as perturbé (disrupted).

Seats

Each different train type has a different way of labelling their seats, and some local trains have no seat allocations at all. “First, make sure you have the correct coach,” Christine Cantera says. “It’s on your ticket, and on the platform there is a sign that tells you where to stand so that you’re in front of that coach when it pulls in.”

Look for the diagram of the train on each platform.

“If you’re disabled, many trains have stairs to get from the track into the train. Make sure to plan ahead with SNCF to get on the train safely and properly,” recommends Barbara Learmonth. 

Double-decker trains  

Many of France’s trains are double-decker or have two floors. Upstairs is great for the views but not great on a hot and sticky train.

Luggage

Don’t make the mistake of putting your luggage in the racks by the train doors as you get on, one reader advises. 

“A personal gripe of mine is when people put smaller bags in the racks near the carriage entrance. There are large enough luggage racks above your seat for even medium size suitcases. This leaves the entry racks free for large cases.”

And for any cyclists, another reader says: “France is a very bike-friendly country, and many trains have areas specially for bikes.”

There are two options for taking your bicycle on SNCF trains, either disassemble it and pack it in a bag no larger than 120 cm high x 90 cm or store it in the area set aside for bicycles which can be found on most trains.

Pet-friendly

All SNCF trains let you travel with your pet so there’s no need to leave them at home. Just remember, they’ll need their own ticket.

Pet tickets were recently simplified and now cost €7 for TGV Inoui, TER or Intercité trains and €10 for Ouigo trains. The pet ticket is available from ticket booths or online booking, but there is no need to book a seat for your pet. Small pets such as cats and small dogs should travel in a carrier while large dogs must wear a muzzle. 

And if you have a pet snail, that will also need its own ticket.

Border crossing

Travelling within the Schengen zone is generally a pretty smooth experience, but if you are crossing a border on your journey remember to have your passport with you.

Passports or ID cards can be checked at the border itself or on arrival at the station, although in many cases there are no checks at all.

Stave off the boredom

As beautiful as the French countryside can be, you might find that faced with a few hours of staring out of the window you’re ready for something to keep you busy. 

If so, one reader recommends taking advantage of the short story vending machines that you’ll find at many train stations around France.

TGV trains have onboard wifi, although the connection is not always the best so if you want to entertain yourself with a series or podcast it might be better to download episodes in advance. 

Snack time

On the TGV routes InOui trains will have a café so you can tick making a picnic for the train off your to-do list. And they sell warm meals, as well as wine and beer and sandwiches and snacks. One bit of advice though, if you are hungry then get in the queue early before the restaurant coach opens because if you leave it late, you can spend a good 20 minutes in the queue.

Note that Ouigo services do not have a bar.

Check for updates

If you’re planning your journey and want up to date information, for example if you’re worried about strikes or other disruptions, you can check the SNCF website or the SNCF app for the latest news. During strikes, SNCF generally publishes a revised strike timetable at around 5pm detailing services for the following day. 

Member comments

  1. As a fully “recovered” advertising guy, I have to LAUGH at the dippy name the SNCF came up with for its new “premium” TGV service . . . inOUI. Has anyone else noticed that this is a PERFECT homonym (sound-alike) for (wait for it, drum roll): ennui ? (Boredom).
    HA HA HA HA. Reminds me of the 1968 USA Cadillac car tagline: “Now longer in length.”

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LIVING IN FRANCE

Wedding bells: What you need to know about getting married in France

With its beautiful chateaux, great food and wine and general romantic vibe France is a popular location for weddings - but whether you live here or just want to get married here, there are some important things to know before you tie the knot.

Wedding bells: What you need to know about getting married in France

To legally marry in France you must be:

  • A minimum age of 18 years old (in very rare cases people under-18 may marry, but they need the signed consent of at least one parent and an age exemption granted by the public prosecutor);
  • The future couple must not be closely related.

Note: if you are a foreign citizen who wants to marry in France, you must also be able to legally marry in your own country.

Same-sex marriage

Same-sex marriage has been legal in France since 2013, however there is an important caveat for foreigners in France – if your home country does not recognise same-sex marriage you may not be able to marry in France, subject to any bilateral treaty between France and your home country – full details here.

If you can marry in France, it is possible that your home country will not recognise your marriage, which could have legal implications if you return to your home country. 

PACS

The alternative to marriage in France is entering into a Pacte civil de solidarité, informally known as pacsé. This gives you many of the same rights as married couples, but not entirely.

Marriage v PACS – what are the differences?

If you live in France

France is a secular country. That means only civil marriages are legally recognised. There’s nothing to stop you from having a religious ceremony, but you have to also do the civil bit, at the mairie, first.

You can do the religious wedding at any time after the civil ceremony.

READ ALSO Does it make financial sense to get married in France?

Documents –  In order to marry in France, if you live in the country, you will need: 

  • Proof of residency in the commune in which you plan to marry for at least 30 days prior to the application of at least one member of the couple. A second home is usually enough to prove the ‘close links’ required, or you can marry in the commune that the parents of one of the couple live in
  • Valid passports;
  • Original birth certificates (less than 3 months old) – overseas ones will need translating;
  • A certificate of non-impediment to marriage. This is available from local authorities;
  • Divorce or death certificate for anyone marrying a second time;
  • Affidavit stating that you are free to marry and that the marriage will be recognised in your home country.

Since this is France, you must obviously create a dossier of all these documents and submit it to the mairie where you wish to marry.

Having checked your documents, the officier d’état civil (registrar) then invites the couple for an interview – this is compulsory. The interview is usually conducted together, but the registrar can also request individual interviews (normally in a case where they suspect forced marriage or a sham marriage). 

The interview is usually conducted in French but if one or both of the couple do not speak French the registrar can request a translator – if you’re worried about doing the interview in French it can a good idea to flag up in advance that you will need a translator. 

There are some exceptions to the requirements for an interview; if it is impossible due to circumstances (eg a serious illness) or if the registrar does not judge it necessary. If one member of the couple lives abroad, the interview can be done at the consulate. 

Next steps – Once your dossier is approved, the next step is to publish the bans – an announcement published by the mairie with your name, address, jobs and intention to marry.

The wedding cannot take place until at least 10 days after the bans are published, but must take place within one year.

Wedding – The wedding must take place in a public building within the commune – this is usually the mairie but can be other venues like a village hall or meeting room.

You will be married by either the mayor or deputy mayor of your commune, who will don their ceremonial tricolour sash for the occasion.

The ceremony must be in French, but it’s fine to have an interpreter present, or if the mayor speaks English they may agree to translate for you. 

The mairie wedding is compulsory to make your wedding legally binding, but how big a deal of it you make is entirely up to you. Plenty of French couples have only the mairie wedding so you’ll see big parties, brides in big white dresses, confetti throwing etc all going on at the mairie.

On the other hand if you want to keep the civil ceremony small and then have a religious wedding with all the trappings, then that is fine too. 

A fun French tradition involves the wedding party moving off from the mairie together in a convoy of decorated cars, all beeping their horns to celebrate the marriage.

Witnesses – You also need to provide between two and four people to be witnesses to the marriage – they must be over 18, but otherwise there are no conditions and they are not required to live in France.

You declare the names of your witnesses when you fill in your pre-marriage paperwork, so you can’t just grab a couple of random people off the street. 

Divorce – we hate to break the romantic mood, but before getting married it’s important that foreigners understand the very different rules in France around the division of assets in the case of a divorce, and make pre-marriage agreements if applicable. Full details HERE.

If you live outside France

If neither member of the couple is a French citizen and neither live in France, you may not be able to have the legal bit of the wedding here.

There are a couple of exceptions to this; if you own a home and France and spend plenty of time there that may be enough to prove ‘close links’ to the commune; if the parents of either member of the couple live in France; or if you are in one of France’s overseas territories – full details here

If you don’t fulfil any of those criteria then you cannot have the mairie wedding in France.

There is, however, nothing to stop you having a religious ceremony or other ceremony in France – complete with friends, family, fancy food and drink, hats etc – and then registering the marriage with the civil authorities in your home country when you get home. 

Many French chateaux do a booming trade in weddings for foreigners, providing a fairytale setting and all the trimmings for your special day, although they usually don’t come cheap. 

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