Shepherd’s pie and Monday openings: British chef brings taste of UK to Parisians

The first ever British brasserie in Paris is serving up shepherd's pie, fry-ups and scotch eggs in a city known for its haute cuisine and demanding gastronomic standards. But it's going down a treat with the locals.

Shepherd's pie and Monday openings: British chef brings taste of UK to Parisians
Photo: L'Entente -- Le British Brasserie/Instagram
It might sound like a brave venture but in just 16 weeks the restaurant is proving to be a hit with the locals and already counts former French presidents among its guests. 
And perhaps it's no wonder. 
This is no “greasy spoon” café or good old UK pub but a high-end British-inspired restaurant that serves top nosh, located in the posh 2nd arrondissement of Paris on Rue Monsigny. 
Oliver Woodhead, the brains behind the new restaurant, described the venture as “groundbreaking”.
Photo: L'Entente — Le British Brasserie/Instagram
“I put the idea together 10 years ago. I knew it would be a challenge and it has been,” he told The Local.
One of the main challenges was surely trying to convince the French of the merits of British cuisine.
Woodhead says the cliché in France that British food is all rubbish is “absolutely unfair”.
“Thirty years ago [former French president ] Jacques Chirac called it the worst cuisine in the world after Finnish food but a lot has changed since then,” he said.
Woodhead moved to Paris 20 years ago for his gap year and never left. 
After working in the hospitality sector around Paris for 15 years mostly for Americans, Brits and New Zealanders he began to hatch his plan for Le British Brasserie, which he was determined would not be a “cliché English-themed restaurant”.
Oliver Woodhead (L) with legendary fashion journalist Suzy Menkes (R). Photo: L'Entente — Le British Brasserie/Instagram
Now he's bringing British classics such as shepherd's pie to a city known for its haute-cuisine and demanding palates.  
But Woodhead tells The Local the key is simplicity. 
“We're not recreating anything complicated. It's just great produce, simply done with a bit of savoir faire,” he said.
Perhaps unsurprisingly Woodhead said it's been “a challenge” to convince the French to swap their treasured boeuf bourguignon and coq au vin for a plate of bacon and eggs, but he says his clientele are openly anglophiles.
And in just 16 weeks he can already boast a visit from former French President Francois Hollande and rave reviews in the French press. 
Photo: AFP
Meanwhile foreigners in Paris are certainly on board, with the the fashion elite including designers Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs and Paul Smith, as well as legendary fashion journalist Suzie Menkes, and Game of Thrones star Gwendoline Christie among the illustrious stars to have eaten there. 
So which dishes are proving the most popular?
“We'll never be able to take our shepherd's pie or fishcakes off the menu,” he said, adding that ginger loaf and lemon posset are the desserts that have been sweeping diners off their feet. 
Open 7/7

And while the food might be British, he isn't cutting France out of the equation completely, using mostly French produce to create his Anglo recipes. 
Although he has made the brave decision to have Westcombe Cheddar, Stilton and Red Leicester on the cheese platter instead of the usual array of French cheeses.
But L'Entente — Le British Brasserie isn't only British in terms of the food it offers. 
The popular shepherd's pie. Photo: L'Entente — Le British Brasserie/Instagram
Woodhead is also bringing a sense of the British working culture from across the Channel to French capital. 
In a city where it's normal for restaurants to close on Sundays and/or Mondays, the fact that L'Entente — Le British Brasserie is open throughout the week and will even be open for the whole of August could be a shock for many of the city's natives. 
“It's also about the Anglo Saxon mentality,” he said. “We're open seven days a week come hell or high water.
“I believe that in hospitality we are there to greet people when they want it and need it,” he added. “But this really isn't part of the [French] culture,” he added. 
Fine dining in Paris 
One of the reasons the British brasserie is proving such a hit could be to do with the fact that there is space for more high-end restaurants in the French capital. 
“It can be hard to get into the really good restaurants in Paris. There are so many tourists as well as complacent restaurants so getting into the good ones can be difficult because they get booked up,” he said. 
“But the Paris restaurant scene is getting better and better,” he added. 
For members


Skulls, beer and a ‘cathedral’: Discover the secrets of underground Paris

You've certainly heard of the Metro, maybe the catacombs and perhaps even the Phantom of the Opera's underground lake - but there are some things lurking beneath Paris that might surprise you.

Skulls, beer and a 'cathedral': Discover the secrets of underground Paris

One of Europe’s most densely populated cities, Paris has over two million people living within its boundaries. As those inhabitants walk along the Champs-Elysées or Rue de Rivoli, they might be entirely unaware of the extensive underground world that exists below their feet. 

These are some of the hidden gems beneath the famous monuments in the City of Light:

Skulls, beer and police

The final resting place for over six million Parisians – the catacombs are the most well-known part of underground Paris, but did you know that the 1,700 metres of catacombs that are open to the public represent less than one percent of the whole of the catacombs in Paris? In fact, the underground network is thought to be around 300 km in size.

The catacombs are also known as the Ossuaire Municipal, and they are located at the site of former limestone quarries. The Ossuaire as we know it was created during the 18th century, because the city’s cemeteries could not withstand its population growth and public health concerns began to be raised. Gradually the remains of millions of Parisians were moved underground.

The bones of Parisians only comprise a small section of Paris’ ‘carrières‘ (or quarries), which can be seen in the above map.

These subterranean passages have fascinated cataphiles for many years – with stories of secret parties, illicit tunnel exploration and much more. During the Covid lockdowns, the catacombs infamously served as a location for clandestine parties. At one point, over 35 people were ticketed for participating in underground raves

The network even has its own police service, the Intervention and Protection Group, known colloquially as the cataflics, who are a specialised police brigade in charge of monitoring the old quarries in Paris.

Though these quarries might be a location to secretly throw back a few pints, they are also connected to beer for another reason, as they are the ideal environment to both store and make beer – with consistently cool temperatures and nearby access to underground water sources.

In 1880, the Dumesnil brewery, located in the 14th arrondissement, invested in the quarries underneath its premises, using them to store the thousands of barrels of beer that it produced each year. Over the years, the brewery simply turned its basement into a real underground factory. 

If you really want to visit the ancient underground quarries specifically, you don’t have to just go to the catacombs. You can also do so by visiting the “Carrières des Capucins.” Found just below the Cochin hospital, located in the 14th arrondissement, access to these tunnels is allowed to the public (with reservation) in small groups.

As for entering the rest of the old quarry system, that has been illegal to enter the old quarries since 1955, which has not stopped several curious visitors and explorers from trying to discover what secrets might be underground. 

Sewer Museum

Recently renovated, this museum might not be at the top of a tourist’s list in the same way the Louvre or Musée d’Orsay might, but the museum of sewers actually has a lot of fascinating history to share. It took almost a century to build Paris’ sewage system, and it is largely to thank for the city’s growth, protecting the public health of inhabitants by helping prevent disease outbreaks. 

Visiting the sewers is not a new activity either – according to the museum’s website, “as early as 1867, the year of the World’s Fair, visits were met with immense public success, the reason being that this underground space had always been hidden from the curious eyes of all those who dwell on the surface of Paris.”

Ghost stations

A total of 16 Metro stations go unused underground in Paris – some were built and never put into use, others were decommissioned after World War II.

The most famous is Porte des Lilas – a working Metro station that has an unused ‘ghost’ section which these days is used for filming scenes in movies and TV.

If you’ve ever watched a scene set in the Metro, chances are it was filmed at Porte des Lilas, which has a section of track that Metro cars can move along if needed for action sequences. 

The extra section was taken out of commission in 1939 due to under-use, and in the 1950s it served as a place to test new metro cars.

Beware if you find yourself in Haxo station – it does not have its own entrance or exit and is only accessible by following the Metro tunnels. It is one of the six that never opened, similar to Porte Molitor, Orly-Sud, La Défense-Michelet, or Élysée-La Défense.

Other stations were closed for being too close to other stations, such as the Saint-Martin station, which was closed after World War II as it was too close to Strasbourg-Saint Denis. 

These phantom stations are usually off-limits to the public, but sometimes access is allowed for special guided tours or events.

Reminders of World War II 

Paris’ underground played an important role during the Second World War.

First, there is the French resistance command bunker, which is now part of the Musée de la Libération at Place Denfert Rochereau.

It was from here that Resistance leaders co-ordinated the battle for the liberation of Paris in 1944.

There is also the anti-bombardment bunker near Gare de l’Est. Normally this is closed during the year, but it is opened on Heritage Day in September. (Journées de patrimoine). 

The bunker was originally commissioned in 1939 to keep trains running, even in the event of a gas attack, and it was completed by the Germans in November 1941. It is located between Metro tracks 3 and 4. The bunker itself – which can fit up to 50 people – has basically been frozen in time, featuring a control room and telephone. 

Another river

You’ve heard of the Seine, but what about the underground river that flows through the city of Paris? Prior to the 20th century, the Bièvre river flowed through the city as well, running through Paris’ 13th and 5th arrondisements. Once upon a time, tanners and dyers set up shop next to the Bievre, shown in the image below. 

The river eventually became quite polluted and concerns arose that it might be a health hazard, so in 1875, as part of his transformation of the city, Georges-Eugène Haussmann decided that the Bièvre had to go. It was mostly covered up, and now what remains of the river flows beneath the city, with some parts of it joining Paris’ sewage system.

The Phantom’s lake

If you are a fan of Phantom of the Opera, you would know that the Phantom’s lair is below the Palais Garnier (the Opera house), and that Christine and the Phantom must cross a subterranean lake to get there.

This body of water is not a figment the imagination of Gaston Leroux – though not an actual lake, a large water tank can be found below the grounds. It is even used to train firefighters to swim in the dark.

The Phantom’s not real, though (probably).


The Montsouris reservoir is one of Paris’ primary drinking water sources, along with L’Haÿ-les-Roses, Saint-Cloud, Ménilmontant and Les Lilas.

But while it’s undoubtedly very useful, it’s most famous for its looks.

The structure resembles a kind of underground water cathedral and is home to over 1,800 pillars, which support its numerous vaults and arches. It’s closed to the public, but its rare beauty means that it’s often photographed by urban explorers.

Mushroom farms

And last but not least – the ‘mushroom houses.’ Les champignons de Paris have been grown below the capital’s soil for centuries.

READ MORE: Inside Paris’ underground mushroom farms

“Paris mushrooms” have been grown since the 17th century. The rosé des près (meadow pink) mushrooms were a favourite of Louis XIV and were originally grown overground – their colour comes from the limestone that Paris is build on.

By the 19th century they went underground, which provided more space and allowed the fungi to be cultivated year-round, but eventually the construction of the Paris Metro pushed many growers out of the capital.

Today, there are just five traditional producers in operation – Shoua-moua Vang runs the largest underground mushroom cave in the Paris region, spread across one and a half hectares of tunnels in a hill overlooking the Seine river.