• France's news in English

Geometry and genitals parade on Paris catwalks

AFP · 23 Jan 2015, 08:27

Published: 23 Jan 2015 08:27 GMT+01:00

Facebook Twitter Google+ reddit

Nod to nostalgia 

Looking back to the 1980s and 1990s is proving something of a trend in a lot of the men's collections, especially with suit jackets.

Celebrity-wise, nobody incarnated the retro vibe better than former supermodel Kate Moss and singer Bryan Ferry, both of whom attended the Louis Vuitton show.

The artistic director for the brand's menswear, Kim Jones, used the show to pay tribute to Christopher Nemeth, a fellow British designer who died in 2010 after achieving cult status for his work in London in the 1980s.

Camel and grey colours dominated on the catwalk, while a Nemeth print, showing the close-up fibres of a rope, was ubiquitous.

Going commando

Rick Owens took one look at the menswear brief -- to dress men for the chilly tail end of this year -- and decided to throw it away. The briefs, that is.

Some of his male models paraded with no underwear in black or beige dress-like outfits that had the crotch area cut away.

The creations may not be widely seen or even copied, but it got an online buzz going for the attention-hungry US designer.

The crotchless outfits sent a ripple across the internet. Photo: AFP

Japanese highlanders

The label doing the most to marry structural design to fashion was the Japanese house Issey Miyake, which brought out a collection paying homage to a Scottish architect and artist Charles Rennie Mackintosh, who died more than eight decades ago.

Tartans draped shoulders and silk scarves adorned necks in a parade notable for sharp, dark suits boasting ovals and grids, and set off with splashes of red and purple.

And everywhere was a rose motif -- a Mackintosh trademark picked up by Issey Miyake designer Yusuke Takahashi.

Concrete raver

Story continues below…

In a gritty underground parking garage off the Champs-Elysees, the label Andrea Crews injected edginess into proceedings with a display of streetwise fashion.

The collective, headed by designer Maroussia Rebecq, had attendees file past a couple of laser-lit cars and a dancing girl to get to the improvised catwalk, where industrial-grade German techno music trobbed and shrilled.

The theme of the collection, showcasing urban outfits tending towards space-age tracksuits in contrasting silver and blacks and whites, was "Race and Rave".

The man being dressed "is feeling silver like his hubcaps, black like his leather interiors, orange like road safety alerts," read the production notes.

Facebook Twitter Google+ reddit

Today's headlines
France to clear 'Jungle' migrant camp Monday
Migrants will be bussed from the camp to some 300 temporary accommodation centres around France. Photo: Denis Charlet/ AFP

The "Jungle" migrant camp on France's northern coast will be cleared of its residents on Monday before being demolished, authorities said Friday.

How life for expats in France has changed over the years
A market in Eymet, southwestern France. Photo: AFP

Foreigners in France explain how life has changed over the years.

London calling for Calais youths, but only a chosen few
Photo: AFP

Dozens of Calais minors are still hanging their hopes on help from the UK, but not all will be so lucky.

17 different ways to talk about sex in French
Photo: Helga Weber/Flickr

Fancy a quick run with the one-legged man?

Yikes! This is what a rat-infested French jail looks like
Photo: YouTube/France Bleu TV.

This video is not for sufferers of ratophobia (or musophobia as the condition is officially called).

France to allow Baby Jesus in Town Halls this Christmas
Photo: AFP

Mary, Joseph, and baby Jesus are safe to go on display again this year, it seems.

National Front posts locations of migrants in French town
The National Front courts controversy. Photo: AFP

"Local tax payers have a right to know," says local far-right party chief.

Paris thieves use tear gas to steal €500,000 of watches
Photo: AFP

The thieves pretended to be couriers then threatened staff with tear gas to get the watches.

Bataclan survivor recounts attack in chilling drawings
Photo: BFMTV screengrab

One survivor has recounted the horrific night through illustrations.

Anger among French police grows as Hollande vows talks
French police demonstrate on the Champs Elysées. Photo: AFP

A fourth night of protests shows government efforts to ease anger among French police have been fruitless.

Sponsored Article
How to vote absentee from abroad in the US elections
Why Toulouse is THE place to be in France right now
Sponsored Article
Last chance to vote absentee in the US elections
Video: New homage to Paris shows the 'real side' of city
The 'most dangerous' animals you can find in France
Sponsored Article
How to vote absentee from abroad in the US elections
Swap London fogs for Paris frogs: France woos the Brits
Anger after presenter kisses woman's breasts on live TV
Is France finally set for a cold winter this year?
IN PICS: The story of the 'ghost Metro stations' of Paris
How to make France's 'most-loved' dish: Magret de Canard
Welcome to the flipside: 'I'm not living the dream in France'
Do the French really still eat frogs' legs?
French 'delicacies' foreigners really find hard to stomach
French are the 'world's most pessimistic' about the future
Why the French should not be gloomy about the future
This is the most useful French lesson you will ever have. How to get angry
Why is there a giant clitoris in a field in southern France?
French pastry wars: Pain au chocolat versus chocolatine
Countdown: The ten dishes the French love the most
Expats or immigrants in France: Is there a difference?
How the French reinvented dozens of English words
The ups and downs of being both French and English
How Brexit vote has changed life for expats in France
Twelve French insults we'd love to have in English
What's on in France: Ten of the best events in October
jobs available