• France edition
My France - Burgundy

'Burgundy is about much more than just wine'

Published: 15 Feb 2013 15:11 GMT+01:00 | Print version
Updated: 15 Feb 2013 15:11 GMT+01:00

In this week's edition of My France tour guide Tracey Thurling takes us on a trip around Burgundy, the epitome of rural France, and tells us why it has so much to offer and why she could never live anywhere else.

How did you end up living in Burgundy?

I first worked in Burgundy back in 1991 on board a hotel barge. Since then I have worked all over France, including other parts of Burgundy but kept coming back here to work. When I met my husband we moved to Chamonix where the children were born but moved back here six years ago to raise our family.

What's so special about Burgundy that kept bringing you back?

I just really love the area and I would not be able to afford my wine habit back in the UK. I love the countryside. It really is super rural here. You can drive for miles without passing through a village and people live in the villages here. There's also the history of Burgundy and the fact there is so much to do here, all the old castles and the museums etc.

You live in the town of Beaune, where do you always take your visitors?

We would always go to the Hospices de Beaune, a 15th century charity hospital that was used as the town's main hospital until 1971.  It was built as a magnificent palace for the poor, supported by donations from the wealthy. These donations included vineyards and today Les Hospices is one of the major landowners of the region, owning 61 hectares of Burgundy’s finest vineyards. 

And what about the rest of the region?

If I were to choose from the whole of Burgundy and the Franche Comte it would be the Citadel of Besançon, fortified by Vauban in the 17th century.  A UNESCO World Heritage site, it not only has well-preserved fortifications but houses a museum to the French Resistance and Deportation, a local history museum, a natural history museum and a zoo. Another favourite family attraction is the medieval chateau of Guédelon they are building in the Yonne, using traditional methods and materials. It is great to visit as each year they have built a little more and added something different.

Which Burgundy wine do you always recommend to people?

It's impossible to choose a favourite. The wine of Burgundy is so varied and never constant, each tiny parcel of vines has a different taste to discover.  Because the parcels also have different owners, the way the winegrower makes the wine influences the taste. Then each vintage is different depending on the weather.  A typical aperitif of Burgundy is a ‘kir’ named after Canon Kir of Dijon, hero of the resistance and Mayor of Dijon for 23 years.  This is made of Aligote wine, (from the Aligote grape) and mixed with Crème de Cassis, a blackcurrant liqueur also made in the region.

What is your favourite restaurant in the region?

Clos de Napoleon in the town of Fixin serves traditional regional dishes, presented beautifully. I take many of my guests there and they always love it especially when I tell them it was featured in the recent BBC series 'Raymond Blanc – A Very Hungry Frenchman'.  The service is brilliant, not too fast, not too slow and the surroundings are brilliant, in front of the fire in an old vaulted cellar in winter, out on the terrace surrounded by vines in the summer. 

Also very popular in Burgundy now are tasting lunches. These take place at the winery, a simple meal accompanied by a selection of the winegrowers wines, with commentaries from the sommeliers on the different wines and how they are made. My favourites are La Table d’Olivier Leflaive in Puligny Montrachet and La Table de Conte Senard in Aloxe Corton.

Everyone has heard of Burgundy but are there any secrets left? 

That there is so much to see and do here besides the wine.  The area has such a rich heritage, so many UNESCO sites, medieval churches, beautiful villages – the film ‘Chocolat’ was filmed in Flavigny sur Ozerain - that there is always something new to discover. So many of my guests come for just one or two days and are so disappointed that they don’t have time to see much, even the guests that come for a week realize that they are barely scraping the surface.

What would you advise to someone thinking of moving to the region?

Understand why the houses are cheap. Outside the Côte d’Or there is very high unemployment and it is necessary not just to speak French but to have an excellent command of the language to find a job.

Has your French life turned out the way you imagined?

No!  I never imagined I would spend the rest of my life in France nor have two bilingual kids.

Tracey Thurlling runs the tour guide company Burgundy by Request which offers bespoke tours tailored to individual needs.

Ben McPartland (ben.mcpartland@thelocal.com)

What do you think? Leave your comment below.

Your comments about this article:

The comments below have not been moderated in advance and are not produced by The Local unless clearly stated. Readers are responsible for the content of their own comments. Comments that breach our terms and conditions will be removed.

ADD YOUR COMMENT   (YOU MUST LOG IN OR REGISTER TO MAKE A COMMENT)
Today's headlines
IMF's Lagarde in Paris for high stakes court grilling
IMF chief Lagarde face Frecnh court this week. Photo: AFP

IMF's Lagarde in Paris for high stakes court grilling

French prosecutors investigating corruption are set to decide on Thursday whether to charge IMF chief Christine Lagarde over her handling of a row that resulted in a €400 million payout being paid to disgraced businessman Bernard Tapie. READ () »

Clinton tells the French to be more positive
Bill Clinton tells the French to be positive in his interview with Europe1 radio. Photo: screenshot Europe1.

Clinton tells the French to be more positive

The former US President Bill Clinton had a message for the French public on a visit to Paris this week - “don’t be too pessimistic”. READ () »

France wants Hezbollah added to terror blacklist
Lebanese Shiite Muslim Hezbollah militants ride on a vehicle carrying a Fajr 5 missile during an annual parade. Photo Mahmoud Zayyat/AFP

France wants Hezbollah added to terror blacklist

France is to call for the military arm of Hezbollah to be added to an EU terror blacklist due to its backing of the Syrian regime, French Foreign Minister Laurent Fabius announced on Wednesday. READ () »

Femen mock writer's suicide at Notre Dame

Femen mock writer's suicide at Notre Dame

Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris was evacuated for the second time in two days on Wednesday when a topless feminist staged a mock suicide in front of the altar the day after far-right historian Dominique Venner shot himself in the church. READ () »

France to spend €20m on embassy security
Libyan security services and civilians gather across the street after a car bomb attack on the French embassy in Tripoli, Libya on April 23rd. Photo: Mahmud Turkia/AFP

France to spend €20m on embassy security

France is to shell out millions of euros on increasing security around its embassies in Africa and the Middle East, the French foreign office announced on Wednesday. The move comes after a car bomb attack on its Libyan embassy last month. READ () »

Opinion - Elitism in France
Why elitism is dragging France down
France's National Assembly where the corridors are patrolled by an elite who are not good at doing their job, argues author Peter Gumbel. Photo: Ell Brown.

Why elitism is dragging France down

There is no egalité when it comes to France’s ruling class, which is dominated by an elite clique where a ‘jobs for the boys’ culture prevails, argues British author Peter Gumbel in his new book. Here he tells The Local how this elitism is holding France back. READ () »

Cannes jeers Gosling's film Only God Forgives
Ryan Gosling's new film Only God Forgives did not go down too well at Cannes. Photo: Ed Van-West

Cannes jeers Gosling's film Only God Forgives

Boos rang out at the Cannes Film Festival on Wednesday for a blood-spattered revenge tale starring Ryan Gosling as a US fugitive running a Bangkok drugs racket and Kristin Scott Thomas as a cross between "Lady Macbeth and Donatella Versace." READ () »

Workers' battle inspires online game 'Kill Mittal'
French workers protest at propsed factory closures. Photo: AFP

Workers' battle inspires online game 'Kill Mittal'

The fight by French workers against Britain-based steel tycoon Lakshmi Mittal has inspired a new online game in which strikers can attack police. The game is called "Kill Mittal", despite its creators insisting it is not designed to incite violence. READ () »

Paris kidnapping gang targets rich women
Wealthy women in Paris are being kidnapped and robbed for their jewellery. Photo: InterGem Jewellery

Paris kidnapping gang targets rich women

French police fear a gang of robbers is specifically targeting wealthy women in Paris after the second victim in a matter of weeks was kidnapped and forced to hand over tens of thousands of euros worth of valuables. READ () »

More trouble for Hollande as Socialist MP jailed
Sylvie Andrieux was jailed for misappropriation of public funds on Wenesday. Photo: Anne-Christine Poujoulat/AFP

More trouble for Hollande as Socialist MP jailed

The French President François Hollande’s bid to clean up French politics suffered an early setback on Wednesday when one of his parliamentary deputies was jailed for misappropriation of public money. READ () »

Highlights
Photo: M&S
Hollande's first year: Top 10 Nightmare Moments
Revealed: France's Best Restaurants in 2013
French Face of the Week
French politicians reveal their wealth
Ten best chat-up lines to use in French
Opinion
Ten most embarrassing mistakes to avoid in French
Fred Dufour/AFP
Photo: AP
Simone Ramella
Latest news from The Local in Sweden

More news from Sweden at thelocal.se

Latest news from The Local in Germany

More news from Germany at thelocal.de

Latest news from The Local in Switzerland

More news from Switzerland at thelocal.ch

Latest news from The Local in Norway

More news from Norway at thelocal.no