• France edition
Interview

The Brit crowned top cheesemonger in France

Published: 05 Feb 2013 08:38 GMT+01:00 | Print version
Updated: 05 Feb 2013 08:38 GMT+01:00

From number crunching to cheese making, the story of how former accountant from Britain, Matt Feroze, ended up being crowned France's top cheesemonger.

Halfway up a mountain in the south of France with the sun beating down and only a herd of goats for company, Briton Matt Feroze's real life as a government accountant in London felt light years away.

A Francophile who had already spent time in the south learning French, little did he know that his month-long working holiday would set him on the path to a whole new potential career and the honour of being the first foreigner to be crowned France's top cheesemonger.

"I was just wandering around the mountain with the goats in the sun, completely lost in the wilderness," Feroze, 30, told AFP in the wake of his unexpected triumph in France's National Cheesemonger Trials in Lyons.

"I realised just how interesting it was, how much went into not just the making of cheese but also how you got from a goat or a cow to your finished cheese being sold in the shop," he said.

After a month working for board and lodging with a farmer and small-scale rural cheese producer, Feroze returned to London in April 2010 and threw himself into studying for his accountancy exams.

But he nurtured a determination to return and somehow work in the cheese industry.

"I felt I was in my late 20s without kids and without a mortgage and this was the time to  go and get some experience, some stories to tell the children and grandchildren," he said.

While in London, Feroze made contact with the British branch of French cheesemongers Fromagerie Mons and set about persuading the company to give him a coveted opportunity to work in their shop in Lyons.

'I just hoped I hadn't come last'

"There was quite a lot of silence with occasional half rejections. I've heard since that it boiled down to a point where Herve (Mons) who runs the company said, 'There's this guy who won't leave me alone, let's find a way of getting him into the shop and he'll probably see enough of it not to come back'."

His future boss, however, had not reckoned on the strength of the young accountant's new found passion for everything to do with cheese.

In September 2011, Feroze took the plunge and took a two-year unpaid sabbatical to do work experience in the company's cheese cellars with the promise of a shot at the shop if he could become knowledgeable and fluent enough.

Determined to succeed, he burned the midnight oil studying and immersed himself in every stage of the cheese-refining process.

Once in the shop, he was taken aback when his boss suggested he might be ready to enter the prestigious bi-annual competition.

The Concours National des Fromagers requires participants to demonstrate their skills by completing five tasks including blind tasting, cutting exact quantities by sight and the presentation of a platter of 25 cheeses.

With little over a year in the industry, Feroze was even more astonished when he scooped first prize on January 27 out of a shortlist of 15.

"I kind of zoned out. I thought there was an outside chance I might have come third and when I didn't I thought 'right, okay I just hope I haven't come last'.

'Cheese is magical'

"I'd been up since five in the morning, I'd hardly slept the night before and been working long hours in the shop, so my French was wearing out and when they said 'Matthew'  I thought 'God it's me'."

With seven months left of his sabbatical, Feroze is happy to bask in the warm glow of his unexpected victory before making any big decisions.

"After that it's a question of working out where I want to sit in the industry and whether that's a fulltime thing or an in-my-free-time thing," he said.

"Winning a competition like this, there's an expectation that you might stay in the industry. What interests me is the small farmers struggling to do something with a great tradition and to keep the history alive, but unfortunately there isn't a huge amount of money in that."

Many cheese producers find it difficult to make ends meet and often have no one to pass the business on to.

"People grow older and their kids - growing up with Internet and social media - maybe don't want to do stuff out in the middle of nowhere on a farm working a huge number of hours for quite a small amount of money and to have no holidays," he said.

Shops like Mons help support small cheese producers but Feroze says it is a tragedy when cheeses disappear.

"Some of these amazing cheeses are very hard to make, they are heavy  and you have to move them quickly, you need strength and it's tiring work.

"It's a hard life but the cheese has character  and you can taste the effort and that makes it magical for me," he said.

AFP (news@thelocal.fr)

What do you think? Leave your comment below.

Your comments about this article:

The comments below have not been moderated in advance and are not produced by The Local unless clearly stated. Readers are responsible for the content of their own comments. Comments that breach our terms and conditions will be removed.

ADD YOUR COMMENT   (YOU MUST LOG IN OR REGISTER TO MAKE A COMMENT)
Today's headlines
Language barriers
Top Ten: English terms the French want barred
Photo: Ashok666

Top Ten: English terms the French want barred

When it comes to fighting off the invasion of English words the French Resistance has had mixed fortunes over the years. Nevertheless the fight goes on. With the help of the Ministry of Culture here's a list of the latest English terms that French authorities want deported. READ () »

Street crime hurts Paris tourism: fashion brands
Elisabeth Ponsolle des Portes (l), here shown handbags in Dubai in 2010, worries "Paris is getting a reputation of total insecurity". Photo: Randi Sokoloff/AFP

Street crime hurts Paris tourism: fashion brands

The streets of Paris are getting a reputation for being unsafe for tourists and this is a threat to business for the great brand names of French fashion, a top body representing the luxury industry warned on Friday. READ () »

Amnesty wants Hollande to up human rights effort
Protesters at an Amnesty International demo in Paris. Photo: Fred Dufour/AFP

Amnesty wants Hollande to up human rights effort

Rights watchdog Amnesty International has filed its end of year report on French President François Hollande's record on tackling human rights issues. Its conclusion was: Could do better. READ () »

Thrill seeker dies 'train surfing' on Paris Metro
File photo: Thomas Ulrich

Thrill seeker dies 'train surfing' on Paris Metro

The dangerous craze of ‘train surfing', which has long been popular in Russia, came to France this week and ended in tragic circumstances. A young man who was reportedly riding the roof of a Paris Metro was killed when the train entered a tunnel. READ () »

Call for probe into sale of Printemps to Qataris
The famous French store Printemps, set to be bought by Qatari investors. Photo: MadebyMark/flickr

Call for probe into sale of Printemps to Qataris

The purchase of the famous upmarket French department store Printemps by investors from Qatar needs to be investigated by authorities for possible corruption, money laundering and tax fraud, unions demanded this week. READ () »

France scraps plan to limit fat cat salaries
A plan to cut fat cat pay in the private sector has been ditched. Photo: Images of Money/Flickr

France scraps plan to limit fat cat salaries

The proposal was labelled by critics as another example of France's Socialist government attacking the richest. But after a u-turn announced on Friday the plan to limit executive pay in the private sector will not now see the light of day. READ () »

Man held suspected of eating his grandmother
Photo: Victor/Flickr

Man held suspected of eating his grandmother

It could easily be the script of a grisly horror movie. Police arrested a man in Nice this week, suspected of chopping up his 95-year-old grandmother. According to sources the suspect admitted to having eaten part of the body. READ () »

IMF's Lagarde spends second day in court
IMF chief Christine Lagarde arrives at court in France for questioning by prosecutors. Photo: Lionel Bonaventure/AFP

IMF's Lagarde spends second day in court

IMF chief Christine Lagarde is spending a second day being questioned by French prosecutors on Friday as part of a probe into a €400 million state payout to disgrace businessman Bernard Tapie. If Lagarde is charged she could be forced to quit the IMF. READ () »

Update: 20 left dead after bombing of French plant
A picture taken on August 7, 2012 shows fighters of the Islamic group of MUJAO. Photo: Romaro Ollo Hien/AFP

Update: 20 left dead after bombing of French plant

At least 20 people were killed and several trainee officers taken hostage when Islamist militants carried out twin bombings on a French-run nuclear plant in Niger. The attack was claimed by the group Movement for Oneness and Jihad in West Africa (MUJAO). READ () »

French Face of the Week
A French Psy who made Cannes stars see double
Is it Psy or is it Denis Carre from rural France. Photo: Naomie Harris /AFP

A French Psy who made Cannes stars see double

Not everyone gets the chance to party with the stars at the Cannes festival for two days, unless that is, you are the French double of 'Gangnam style' entertainer Psy and you have the nerves of steel to pretend to be him. Meet Denis Carre our undisputed French Face of the Week. READ () »

Highlights
Photo: M&S
Hollande's first year: Top 10 Nightmare Moments
Revealed: France's Best Restaurants in 2013
French Face of the Week
French politicians reveal their wealth
Ten best chat-up lines to use in French
Opinion
Ten most embarrassing mistakes to avoid in French
Fred Dufour/AFP
Photo: AP
Simone Ramella
Latest news from The Local in Sweden

More news from Sweden at thelocal.se

Latest news from The Local in Germany

More news from Germany at thelocal.de

Latest news from The Local in Switzerland

More news from Switzerland at thelocal.ch

Latest news from The Local in Norway

More news from Norway at thelocal.no